Valdez on the day of my leaving had sprung into definition when the clouds lifted and the incredible mountains and tucked in glaciers went visible. Wandering in the Blueberry Lake Recreation area on Thompson Pass was deliriously beautiful and I more or less floated to Kenny Lake, another access point into the Wrangell-St. Elias Park. Kenny Lake, like Slana, is a successful community of homesteaders but I don’t know about “the hotel.” For 70$ I got a stark room with stained floors, stained towel and bathroom across the hall. Luckily I was alone and the young attendant came and figured out the stove for me. (It was mid-40s.) The owner was very pissed off with me because I told her that Selkie, as a service dog, could not be charged to stay there under the ADA. That was uncomfortable and bleached any flavor of optimism I might have had about the adventure of staying in yet another unique environment. After spending over 100$ for a dump with paper thin walls in Valdez I wasn’t excited to be running the budget down further at another one. Despite being off my magic carpet I slept well and we left there uneventfully.
The road north again was long. I got a little better view of the Wrangells but the sky grew more gray with the afternoon. I stopped in a few First Nation communities, like Copper Center, trying to locate a small hair clip for myself or affordable gifts but most stores seemed to be owned by Caucasians and were not what I hoped to find.
Finally, with grogginess overtaking me I came off the road at a small family owned grocery store (Midway Services, next to Autell Creek, near Talkeetna–its For Sale!) Owner Jay and his wife Debbie offered me their school bus to stay in for FREE! This is what they have done for years and the entire ceiling is Thank You notes from internationalists—many riding bikes (eg Anchorage to Argentina!) The bus looks very much like the one in Into the Wild, although it is only a few hundred feet from the roadway.
It rained in the night and the temperature dropped close to freezing. The propane tank went empty and I didn’t want to stay long enough to use the woodstove so I left and finished my meander to Tok where I stayed in this unconventional housing for the night.
I’m now in Beaver Creek. The second I hit the Canadian border (and the border guard had given Selkie a Milkbone,) the sky opened up and immediately the road went white with hail. Luckily, Beaver Creek is just about 2 km from the border and I could quickly get in here for the night.
And this is my wonderful lodging for tonight. 5 separate rooms, bathroom across the hall but I’m luckily alone and the price is right! Don’t knock it… it’s like heaven to me. (Think of the Seven thousand people who have fled Trump’s U.S. for Quebec seeking refugee status!) Tomorrow will be a long haul to Haine’s Junction on more bad road… It has gone into the 30s at night now and the rains are unpredictable… don’t think I’ll be camping again despite how lovely it is to have fewer mosquitos.